Russian-born diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, nephew of famed diamond cutter Abraham Tolkowsky, invented the oval diamond cut in the mid-20th century and was inducted into the Jewelers Hall of Fame for his achievement.
The oval cut is a modified, elongated version of the round brilliant diamond. Most oval cut diamonds feature 56 facets, with four, six, or eight pavilion facets.
Since the size and shape of ovals can vary, there is no ideal oval cut. However, most diamond trade experts agree that while a length-to-width ratio of 1.5:1 is the best proportion for most oval cut stones, proportions that fall in the range of 1.33:1 to 1.66:1 are also acceptable.
The long shape of the oval cut make it a very flattering diamond design, particularly for women who have small hands or short fingers. Oval cut diamonds look good in three-stone settings, but can also be used in diamond solitaire rings. Oval cut diamonds need six-prong settings to securely hold the diamond.
Like other elongated diamond cuts, the oval cut can sometimes contain the “bow-tie effect.” When examined from the top, the table may appear to contain a dark bow-tie shape, but this is not an inclusion or a fault of the cut. In fact, the bow-tie effect is simply the result of the looker’s head blocking the light hitting the diamonds!
